Stroll down memory lane and picture the roaring 1920s: flapper dresses swaying to the Charleston, sleek bobbed haircuts, and an air of captivating elegance. This era of glamour and innovation gave birth to Art Deco, a design movement that swept across architecture, fashion, and, of course, jewelry.
Art Deco jewelry, with its timeless allure and enduring appeal, continues to fascinate collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike. Ruby Lane, a renowned online marketplace for vintage and antique treasures, offers a haven for those seeking authentic Art Deco pieces. But with a sea of glittering options, how do you navigate this marketplace to uncover genuine Art Deco jewelry? This post serves as your guide, leading you through the intricacies of sourcing and authenticating these coveted pieces on Ruby Lane.
Table of Contents
- Understanding Art Deco Jewelry
- Navigating Ruby Lane for Art Deco Treasures
- Authenticating Your Art Deco Finds
- Caring for Your Art Deco Jewelry
- FAQ Section
Understanding Art Deco Jewelry
The Art Deco Era and Its Influence
The Art Deco movement truly blossomed at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts) in Paris – an event that lent its shortened name, “Art Deco,” to the movement. Spanning from the mid-1920s to the mid-1930s, the Art Deco era witnessed a confluence of cultural influences, from the discovery of King Tut’s tomb, which ignited a fascination with Egyptian motifs, to the rise of Hollywood’s golden age, with its emphasis on opulence and sophistication.
These cultural shifts directly impacted fashion trends. Flapper dresses, with their dropped waistlines and shorter hemlines, revolutionized women’s clothing, demanding jewelry that complemented their modern silhouette. This led to the emergence of Art Deco jewelry’s characteristic long earrings, larger bracelets meant to adorn bare arms, and long necklaces that danced along with the wearer.
Authentic Art Deco vs. Art Deco Style
It’s crucial to differentiate between authentic Art Deco jewelry, crafted during the era, and Art Deco Style jewelry, created later but borrowing the era’s design vocabulary. While both can be beautiful and collectible, authentic pieces hold a distinct historical significance and often greater value.
Here’s a simple guide to help you distinguish between the two:
| Feature | Authentic Art Deco | Art Deco Style |
|---|---|---|
| Time Period | 1925 – mid-1930s | Created after the Art Deco era |
| Materials | Platinum, white gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies | May use similar precious metals, but also base metals, silver, chrome, resin, bakelite, glass |
| Gemstones | Primarily genuine gemstones | Often incorporates rhinestones, simulated stones, or less expensive gemstones |
| Craftsmanship | High level of craftsmanship, hand-finishing, intricate details | May vary in quality, can be mass-produced, might show simplified details |
Hallmarks of the Art Deco Style
Whether authentic or inspired, Art Deco jewelry shares certain distinct visual characteristics:
- Geometric Shapes: Art Deco revels in the beauty of geometry, employing squares, rectangles, triangles, circles, and trapezoids to create bold and striking designs.
- Symmetry and Balance: Balance and symmetry are key, creating a sense of harmony and order in each piece.
- Linearity: Straight lines intersect with flowing curves, lending a dynamic quality to the designs.
- Materials and Gemstones: Authentic pieces often feature platinum or white gold settings adorned with precious gemstones like diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. Costume jewelry from the era utilized chrome, silver, steel, rhodium plating, bakelite, and colorful glass, with sparkling rhinestones as a common substitute for diamonds.
- Techniques: Filigree, intricate metalwork that creates lace-like patterns, is frequently seen in Art Deco jewelry. Enamel work, in which colored glass is fused onto metal, adds vibrant accents. Channel setting, where gemstones are placed in a groove, and pave setting, which covers surfaces with tiny gemstones, are also characteristic of the period.
Navigating Ruby Lane for Art Deco Treasures
Ruby Lane boasts a vast collection of vintage and antique jewelry, making it an ideal platform for sourcing Art Deco pieces. But with such an abundance of choices, effective navigation is crucial.
Using Ruby Lane’s Search and Filter Features
Ruby Lane provides powerful search and filter tools to help you narrow down your search for that perfect Art Deco gem:
- Keywords: Start with general terms like “Art Deco jewelry,” and then refine your search with more specific keywords, such as “Art Deco ring,” “vintage flapper necklace,” or “Art Deco marcasite bracelet.”
- Filters: Ruby Lane allows you to filter your search by various criteria:
- Category: Choose from rings, bracelets, necklaces, brooches, earrings, etc.
- Style: Select “Art Deco” to specifically focus on pieces from the era.
- Material: Filter by desired materials like platinum, white gold, silver, or bakelite.
- Time Period: Focus your search on the 1920s or 1930s to increase the likelihood of finding authentic Art Deco pieces.
Identifying Reputable Ruby Lane Shops
Not all shops on Ruby Lane are created equal. To ensure a positive buying experience, prioritize reputable sellers:
- Shop Reviews: Scrutinize reviews and ratings from previous buyers to gauge a shop’s reliability and customer service.
- Detailed Item Descriptions: Look for shops that provide comprehensive item descriptions with clear photos, information about the piece’s materials, condition, and history.
- Shop Policies: Familiarize yourself with the shop’s return policies and guarantees before making a purchase.
Communicating with Shop Owners
Don’t hesitate to engage with shop owners if you have questions about a specific piece. Ruby Lane facilitates communication, allowing you to:
- Ask for Additional Photos: Request close-ups of hallmarks, gemstones, or any areas of concern.
- Inquire About Condition: Clarify any details about the item’s condition or inquire about previous repairs.
- Negotiate Pricing: Politely inquire about the possibility of negotiating the price, especially if you are interested in purchasing multiple items.
Authenticating Your Art Deco Finds
Once you’ve narrowed down your search, it’s time to authenticate your potential Art Deco treasures.
Examining Hallmarks and Maker’s Marks
Hallmarks are crucial in determining the metal content and origin of jewelry. Many reputable Art Deco jewelry makers stamped their pieces with unique marks:
- Trifari: One of the most renowned costume jewelry makers, early Trifari pieces bear the “KTF” hallmark.
- Pennino: Known for their high-quality costume jewelry, Pennino pieces often feature a stylized “P” mark.
- Krementz: Primarily a manufacturer of gold-filled jewelry, Krementz hallmarks include various iterations of their name and a collar-and-cuff symbol.
- Hobe: Famous for their elaborate designs, Hobe often used a hallmark featuring their name inside a rectangular frame.
- Coro: A prolific producer of costume jewelry, Coro used various marks throughout the Art Deco era, including a crown with their name and “CoroCraft” or “Sterling” markings.
- Napier: Known for their elegant designs and silver jewelry, Napier used a stylized “N” mark and later incorporated their full name into their hallmark.
Spotting Red Flags
Be vigilant for signs that a piece might not be authentic:
- Unrealistic Pricing: Extremely low prices for purportedly rare or valuable Art Deco jewelry should raise red flags.
- Inconsistent Design Elements: Carefully examine the piece for any discrepancies in style, craftsmanship, or materials that don’t align with the Art Deco period.
- Poor Quality Photos: Exercise caution if a shop uses blurry or low-resolution images that obscure details.
Caring for Your Art Deco Jewelry
Art Deco jewelry, especially authentic pieces, deserves meticulous care:
Gentle Cleaning and Storage
- Cleaning: Opt for gentle methods and avoid harsh chemicals when cleaning your Art Deco pieces. A soft cloth and mild soapy water are often sufficient. Consult a professional jeweler for delicate or intricate items.
- Storage: Prevent scratches and tangling by storing your jewelry in individual boxes or soft pouches. Keep your collection in a cool, dry environment away from extreme temperatures or humidity.
FAQ Section
What are the most sought-after Art Deco jewelry pieces?
Art Deco collectors often seek these iconic pieces:
- Flapper Necklaces: Long, elegant necklaces, often crafted from colorful glass beads, pearls, or gemstones.
- Rhinestone Jewelry: Geometric and sparkling, rhinestone pieces range from necklaces and bracelets to brooches and earrings.
- Chokers: Snug-fitting necklaces that accentuate the neck, often featuring intricate rhinestone designs, geometric patterns, or black velvet ribbons with marcasite accents.
- Egyptian Revival Jewelry: Inspired by ancient Egyptian art and artifacts, this style often incorporates scarab motifs, Lapis Lazuli, turquoise, carnelian, and onyx.
- Mesh Jewelry: Scarce and delicate, mesh collars, bracelets, and other jewelry pieces were either hand-painted or enameled, showcasing intricate patterns and designs.
- Geometric Jewelry: Bold and striking, geometric earrings, brooches, and pendants highlight the era’s love for angular lines, flowing curves, and balanced compositions.
- Crystal and Rock Crystal Jewelry: Earrings and pendants made from carved rock crystal or faceted crystal, often set in sterling silver, embody the era’s sophisticated aesthetic.
- Figural Pins: Art Deco figural pins often depict stylized figures or objects, frequently embellished with square-shaped rhinestones or floral designs.
- Dress Clips: Also called fur clips, these increasingly rare pieces, often found in pairs, were used to adorn dresses, lapels, or furs.
- Cocktail Rings: Statement rings, often featuring a prominent gemstone like a sapphire, ruby, emerald, or diamond, reflect the era’s extravagance and glamour.
What is the difference between Czech glass and Murano glass?
Both Czech glass and Murano glass were popular in Art Deco jewelry, but they originated from different regions and boast distinct characteristics:
- Czech Glass: Produced in Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic), renowned for its high quality, vibrant colors, and intricate designs. It was widely used in costume jewelry, including the iconic long “flapper” necklaces.
- Murano Glass: Originating from the island of Murano near Venice, Italy, Murano glass is hand-blown and known for its intricate patterns, unique colors, and artistic craftsmanship. It was frequently used in Art Deco jewelry, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication.
Is it okay to wear Art Deco jewelry every day?
The wearability of Art Deco jewelry depends on the piece’s material, condition, and age:
- Art Deco Style: Generally, pieces made in the Art Deco style, especially those crafted from sturdy materials, can be worn more frequently. However, exercise caution with delicate designs or fragile materials.
- Authentic Art Deco: Authentic pieces from the era often require more careful handling. Due to their age, certain materials might be more prone to damage, and intricate details can be fragile.
It’s best to consult a jeweler for advice on wearing specific Art Deco pieces, especially those with delicate gemstones, intricate settings, or signs of wear.
What should I do if I think I have inherited a valuable Art Deco piece?
If you suspect you possess a valuable Art Deco jewel, it’s essential to have it professionally appraised and authenticated:
- Appraisal: A qualified appraiser can determine the piece’s current market value based on its materials, condition, and rarity.
- Authentication: An expert can verify the piece’s authenticity, ensuring it originates from the Art Deco period and is not a later reproduction.
You can find reputable appraisers and authentication services through professional jewelry organizations or by contacting established jewelry stores specializing in vintage and antique pieces.